Category Archives: Europe

These are all the stories, travel tips, and listicles from countries in Europe

The Perfect Day in Lake Bled, Slovenia

June 24, 2018 Beth 1 Comment

If you’re visiting Slovenia, chances are you are going to be in Ljubljana, and if you’re in Ljubljana, chances are you will take a day trip (or maybe a longer trip) to Lake Bled. We weren’t sure if we wanted to go to Bled for two reasons: Lake Bled is very popular among tourists so we expected that it might be really busy, and because of the prolific tourism, we figured that the prices of everything would be way out of our normal daily budget. We really try to avoid ‘tourist traps’ and worried Bled might be just that. That being said, we also really try not to let our dirtbag cheapskate lifestyle get in the way of experiencing everything a country has to offer, so we decided to go! On a Sunday…

We drove in to town and were stopped in standstill traffic. That’s when I realized the day of the week and did a facepalm. We had mapped out a parking lot offering free 2 hour parking on the other side of the lake, but at this rate it would take another two hours to get there! A sign caught Michael’s eye: the coveted, much beloved international sign for ‘campervan parking.’ We turned off the busy road and followed the signs. We came to a parking lot full of vans and RVs — our people! — with a sign posted indicating €10 parking for vans and RVs. Dang! I checked the map again to see if there were any other free parking lots nearby when a couple, maybe my parent’s age, driving a van with a Dutch licence plate, came over to offer us their parking ticket. They had paid for 24 hours and their ticket was good for another six! Score! Thank you, lovely Dutch couple, you’ve made two cheapskate Canadians very happy today.

We threw open the back doors of the van and pulled out our folding bicycles. We unfolded the frames and locked the hinges into place. Let’s hit the road! We quickly found the lake from the parking lot, and it was very clear why Lake Bled is so popular: it’s totally spectacular. The lake is quite small and is surrounded by steep, treed hills and crazy steep cliffs. On one side, the castle of Bled is perched high up on a cliff and in the middle of the lake is an island with a church and a bell tower built in the middle. All around the water is a 6.5km long walking path! We began bicycling. The beginning of the path was very narrow and with all those Sunday lake-goers crowding the path, our ‘bicycling’ ended up as more of a ‘walk alongside a bicycle’, but no bother: the sky was blue, the lake was beautiful — nothing could get us down!

We arrived at the other side of the lake from the town, where we found the trailhead to take us to the viewpoint of Ojstrica (not to be confused with Mala Osojnica!). We locked up the bikes and began our ascent. The way up to the viewpoint is about 600m, from the road, and straight up a hill. The sign told us it should take only 20 minutes. Ok, sign, that seems like a really quick climb, but we’ll take your word for it. We walked up and up. I couldn’t help but be a little sad, for my hair looked so cute and Instagrammable before the climb, and once we reached the top, the sweat had done its worst. From the top of Ojstrica we could see the entire lake, the church island in the middle, the castle of Bled, and in the distance, the peaks of the Julien Alps of Slovenia. Thank goodness for the bench up at the point, for my knees became weak at the majesty of the view. Here we enjoyed the lunch we packed: tuna wraps with cheese, cucumber, corn, and red pepper. We were joined by quite a few other groups of people, but way less than I expected based on the number of people on the walking path around the lake. People came, took pictures, and left. We took multiple pictures for other couples who were trying (and failing!) to capture the view with a selfie, and we had someone take our picture for us. It really was quite the view.

We walked back down, collected our bicycles, and continued on our way. Bled is famous for a few things: the church on the island in the lake, the castle on a cliff, and the real reason we all come to Bled, the Blejska Kremsnita, the Bled cream cake! We found the most perfect, quaintest little cafe, with a killer balcony, and a cream cake that looked unmissable. We ordered a slice to share, and a dark local beer to wash it down: the perfect combination! The cake is not too sweet, but so creamy and delicious. I wouldn’t even call it cake, it’s really just a slice of cream, but well deserved after our bicycle ride, and our 600m climb!

To finish our perfect day around this perfect little lake, I wanted to rent a rowboat and have Michael row me around the church island — how romantic! When we arrived at the boat rental shop however, the romance died. To rent a boat for an hour would cost €20! I was super disappointed, but there was just no way we could justify that, not even for the epic pictures and videos we could take with the drone! We hung our heads and left the shop. But wait! The sky was still perfectly blue, the lake was still incredibly beautiful, nothing could get us down! We continued to cycle along the path until a rope swing caught Michael’s eye! There was nobody around. We pulled over, locked the bikes, and headed down to the water’s edge. Michael changed into his swimmers and took a beautifully long dip in the water. He had a few turns on the rope swing, too. Some good, old fashioned, free fun.

The time on our parking pass was coming to an end, so we bicycled back into town towards the van. We arrived back right as our six hours finished. I’m so glad we came to Bled. I’m so glad we ignored our worries. We were able to have a perfectly cheap day in a super touristy town, find the secret spots off the beaten track, and have a really wonderful time!

Some tips if you’re heading to Bled:

The cake is amazing and you must try it. We went to Caffe Peglez’n where the cake was €4 and a big beer was €3.

%xvXkuS1Q2ajbhTPOhgZDg — How cute is this place?!

Whether or not you have an Instagram account, you really should go to the viewpoint of Ojstrica. Don’t confuse it with the viewpoint Mala Osojnica! That viewpoint is higher, harder to get to and doesn’t have views that are nearly as nice!

Bicycling is a fun way to get around. After the first stretch of path by the casino with all the people wandering about, the path widens and becomes a bit more bicycle-friendly. You can rent bicycles in Bled! Or just walk the path. I imagine if you walked it, you would find even more secret swimming spots with rope swings!

Rent a boat!(?) I read a blog that said they rent for €12-€15, so maybe we just happened to find the most expensive guy. If your travel budget is bigger than ours (let’s face it, everyone’s probably is), then I say splurge for the boat! Maybe even buy the cream cake to go and enjoy it on the middle of the lake! You do you.

Europe, Travel Stories

Hiking to Lago di Sorapis, Dolomites, Italy

June 18, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

We were up and at ‘em at 7am — not a common occurrence these days — and were scarfing down a hearty, hiker’s breakfast, by 7:15. The weather forecast for the day boasted a beautiful, sunny morning, and threatened afternoon thundershowers, hence our early start. Michael made a pot of coffee, and brought it to our French neighbours in the van next door, they had come over last night to ask if we had any weed, and even when we told them no, we ended up chatting for about an hour, Gavin and Tiffany, and their dog, Nina. They too, were up at 7 today to do the hike up to Lago di Sorapis. Last night, we parked in a big meadow under a bridge, next to a waterfall. Sounds idyllic, but the real dream of this spot was that we were a two minute drive from the trailhead!

We pulled up to the start of the hike, where only a handful of other cars were parked, and with a quick check to make sure we didn’t forget anything important, like the gummy bears, we began! The beginning of the trail was nice and easy. It was a bit of a climb, but the shade from the beautiful pine tree forest around us, made it very manageable. We came to a clearing in the trees and for the first time today, caught a view of the valley. Just totally spectacular. The Dolomites are a crazy mountain range. The mountains emerge from the ground as little mounds, and then, huge, flat walls, rocket up to become craggy peaks. The mountains we were looking at were no different, and the valley was wonderfully wide, giving us such a view. It’s views like this that make me want to climb higher and higher — if it’s this good now, imagine what it will be like 800m up!

The path emerged from the forest and we left the shady cover of the trees. Our peaceful, pleasant walk through a forest, became a rocky, sun-drenched, trail with a hefty drop on the one side. We held on to the cables bolted into the rock beside us, to give us some peace of mind about the cliffside, and took it nice and slow. We were directly in the sun at this point, and the sweat really started to roll. Nina’s tongue was dangling out of her mouth, and she was panting away.

We finally reached a fork in the road, with a signpost informing us the lake was only a few metres away. We took a few more steps up the trail, and as we crested the hill, we could see Lago di Sorapis. Oh. My. God. The water in this lake is ‘out of this world’ blue. If you had told me it was radioactive, I would have believed you. The icy, almost opaque turquoise lake was surrounded on three sides by huge, rugged peaks, and with no wind, they were reflected almost perfectly in the water. We stood for a moment, just staring at the view, experiencing what I like to call ‘summit brain’ (the phenomena in which the hiker, after experiencing intense muscle fatigue, great physical exhaustion, and, often, mild dehydration, forgets all of the aforementioned ailments upon reaching the summit of the mountain, or the ‘summit’ of the hike).

We walked a little ways around the lake, in search of the perfect lunch spot. I believed I found it, a big, flat rock protruding out into the water, but when I arrived, I discovered it wasn’t protruding at all, that it was actually surrounded by water. That didn’t stop Gavin! He stepped out to the rock closest to our lunch rock, and without hesitation jumped up, and heaved himself up onto the platform. One by one, we followed suit. Michael first, and then me. I jumped and somehow managed to pull myself up onto the rock. Woohoo! Now we really deserve lunch! I ate my wrap and dipped my feet in to the water below. It’s freezing!

After we enjoyed our lunch (and gummy bears), we continued to walk around the lake. We came to a crystal clear creek and filled our water bottles. Nearby was some leftover snow, the sun hadn’t melted yet. I’m not sure who started it, but someone discovered it was the perfect snow for snowballs. So, like the children that we are, we threw snowballs at each other. We giggled like idiots, as we tossed the snow around.

Then, it was time to go. We stood for a few moments, soaking in the views. Sure, we have photos of this place, but they don’t hold a candle to actually being here. We walked back to the fork in the road, and followed the signpost directing us to the loop. We began the walk down, a terribly steep path. The steps were uncomfortably big, and the sun was still beating down on us. We walked and talked, trying to take our minds off this ridiculous trail we chose, until a few hours later, we reached the bottom of the valley. Michael consulted his phone and the hiking app we use. We were close to the end in time, but not in kilometres. The super steep way down took ages, but we didn’t cover much ground. We walked and walked and walked. Then, when we were only about 5km from the end, we began walking uphill again. What?! Uphill both ways?! I looked at Nina, she looked at me as if to say, “why the F aren’t we home yet?” We stood in the path for a moment, all desperately trying to summon the last morsels of energy from deep down within. I gasped! I ripped open my bag, and fished out the near empty bag of gummy bears at the bottom of my bag. There were four left. We each took one and allowed the sugarto coarse through our veins. Let’s go!Up we went, sweat pouring down our faces. And then, just to top it all off, the skies opened up, and the rain began to fall. I was too exhausted to get out my raincoat, we all were, so we continued in t-shirts as the warm drops fell. I didn’t complain, it was actually quite a welcome relief from the sun.

We arrived at the road, and over the top of just one more hill, I could see the van! Van, sweet van. We drove back to the parking spot under the bridge to share one more meal with Gavin and Tiffany, before we separated ways. What an epic adventure to share with two strangers! The sun, the lake, the views, the company, all of it was spectacular. Yet again, the Dolomites didn’t disappoint.

Europe, Travel Stories

Taking a Google Maps Detour

June 12, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

We were in Lago di Monate, and wanted to get to Lago di Braies/Pragser Wildsee. When we Google Mapped the route, it gave us two options: we could drive through Italy, take the toll roads, and arrive in Braies today, OR, we could take the slow route, drive north to Chur, Switzerland, through Lichtenstein, over to Innsbruck, Austria, and then down to Braies.

There we lay, in the sun, on a pedalo, in the middle of the lake, weighing our options. On one hand, we could wake up in Braies tomorrow! On the other, we could visit our friend, Luca, in Chur, see a country we’ve never seen, go to an original version showing of Solo: a Star Wars story (which, is near impossible to find in Italy) in Innsbruck, Austria, and then drive down through the Dolomites, to Braies. So, on that pedalo, in the sun, in the middle of that lake, we decided to drive to Switzerland.

We drove out of Italy with one last stop to the grocery store. We need beer, meat, cheese, snacks— all the things you can’t get in Switzerland for a reasonable, cheapskate price. Our van was packed with Italy-cheap necessities, and we were on the road. As soon as we drove across the border, the highway was pristine, the cars drove the speed limit, and we were surrounded by beautiful mountains and incredible waterfalls. Welcome to Switzerland.

First country: Switzerland

On our second day in Chur, Switzerland, we woke up early and drove to the Pradaschier Toboggan run! On this day, between 9am and 11am, the tickets were two for one. Michael and I were a little bummed to find out they meant two rides for the price of one, not two adults for the price of one, BUT we decided to go anyway. Luckily, nobody else decided to come to the rollercoaster this day, and so, we were the only three people in the place! We took a chairlift to the top of the hill, which boasted stunning views of the whole valley, and found the top of the toboggan run. This is a 3 kilometre rollercoaster-type ride, that snakes down the hill, and ends back at the bottom of the valley. The toboggan itself is basically a chair that’s connected to the track, and the rider is strapped in with only a seatbelt and controls only the brakes.

One at a time, the rollercoaster operator showed us how to use the brakes, fastened our seatbelts properly, and made sure the coast was clear — of course it was clear, we were the only people there. Luca went first, then Michael, and then it was my turn! The man strapped me in, demonstrated again how the brake lever works, and then I was off! Ahh! The first drop out of the gate was quick! The toboggan flew down the track! I came to the first corner too fast, so pulled on the brakes. As I rounded the corner, I let out a small giggle. I let the brakes go, and my speed picked up again. My hair whipped out behind me, the wind muted my squeals and giggles — I was having the best time! I whizzed above wildflowers, hurtled through alpine meadows, and zipped past the grazing cows with their clanging bells. The smile plastered on my face was unshakeable. When I finally arrived at the bottom, I could see Michael with the camera ready for a picture, and Luca, already half done a cigarette. Was I gone that long? But it felt so fast! It was such a rush! And the best part? We get to go again!

Michael smiled and asked how it was, “AMAZING!” I replied! We walked back to the chairlift and the operator said something in German. Luca replied, and they both laughed. Luca turned to me and explained that the operator was making fun of how slow I went down the hill, “where was she?!” he had joked, “that’s the slowest run I’ve ever seen!” I smiled. I knew I had gone slow, but it felt fast enough for me, and I had so enjoyed myself! So, we sat in the chairlift again, and it whisked us up to the top of the hill. Michael asked if I wanted to go in his toboggan this time, but he would be in charge of the brakes. I knew that meant we would go fast, so I hesitated, but agreed in the end.

Michael climbed in first, and strapped himself in. I sat in between his legs, and strapped my own seatbelt, making sure it was as tight as possible. The rollercoaster operator told me to keep hold of the handle — let’s call it the ‘holy shit handle’ — the whole time. My heart started pounding. “You ready, babe?” Michael asked from behind me. I nodded, but wasn’t actually ready enough to use my words. The gate released and we were off. Immediately, going three times faster than I went on my own. We flew down the hill, flying over the bumps in the track, coming into the corners hot, and exploding out of them. The whole way down I half laughed, half screamed, because I felt half happy, and half utterly terrified. When we arrived at the bottom, my legs were jelly! And the best part? We don’t have to go again!

Second country: Lichtenstein

We hit the road. Google Maps took us north, out of Chur, along the valley, and towards Lichtenstein. One thing I’ve learned about Europe from driving through it, is how the countries seem to be divided by very obvious borders: huge rivers, big hills, or giant mountain ranges. We drove out of the mountain valley, and as we drove out from the shadow of the mammoth peaks that are the Swiss mountains, we saw a “Welcome to Lichtenstein” sign. Within ten minutes of being in Lichtenstein, we saw three archery ranges. Within another ten minutes, we drove past another sign, “Welcome to Austria” and we were back in the mountains, feeling lucky we hadn’t been shot with an arrow.

Third country: Austria

We made it for the original version showing of Solo: A Star Wars Story! It played only one time in the week, in one theatre in Innsbruck — on Tuesdays at 5pm. We were two of the six people in the theatre, and arguably, the most excited. Yay! The next day, we thought we would leave Austria, and finally make our way to Braies. But, something came up…

Last year, when we visited Austria the first time, we did a three day hike through the alps, that finished in a town called Umhausen (you can read the story about that hike here!). The last stretch of the hike was down an enormous staircase next to the biggest waterfall in Austria, Stuibbenfalls. We had seen some folks doing a vía ferrata up the side of the falls, and we decided it would be the coolest activity to do. We realized that Innsbruck is only 45 minutes away from Umhausen, and so, decided to drive there to do the vía ferrata!

Michael found a campground that would rent us the equipment, so we head there. We collected our harnesses, carabiners, and helmets, and walked along the trail to the beginning of the route. The vía ferrata began with a river crossing. One at a time, we clipped to the cable, and slowly made our way across the water. The cables were wobbly, making it hard to clip and unclip our carabiners. I had to ignore the thunderous rumbles of the rushing water below me in order to stay calm!

The route was quite easy after the river crossing. There were some parts of the path that felt more like a hike than a vía ferrata, and we found ourselves doing a lot of it without clipping onto the cables at all. Until the end. We reached the wall next to the waterfall. Stuibbenfalls is 159m (about 521ft) tall. The water erupts from the top of the cliff, bombs down the face, and slaps the rocks along the way. It roared as it passed us. I couldn’t even hear myself think, let alone hear the words coming out of Michael’s mouth. The final step of the vía ferrata was to cross the top of the waterfall. I’ll write that again so you have a second chance to make sure you read it correctly. To end the route, we have to cross the top of the waterfall. Two horizontal cables ran across the precipice, more cables hung between them, and acted like rungs of a ladder turned on its side. A third horizontal cable stretched a little ways above — that was the one we would clip our harnesses to. Michael went first. He clipped onto the top cable, and slowly shuffled across the bottom two. He was a champ! When he reached the halfway point, he posed for a picture, as if it was the most normal place to be, balancing on a lone cable, stretched across a monstrous waterfall, 159m above the ground. It was my turn. I clipped my harness, and I too, slowly shuffled out onto the cable. Immediately, I felt so powerful, like I was on top of the world. I laughed and screamed down the cliff, into the valley below. The water behind me splashed my legs and ankles. When I made it to the other side, I was greeted with a huge kiss from Michael. We did it!

The next morning, I woke up when cow bells began clanging in the distance. I stirred in bed, rolled over and opened my eyes. The clanging bells became louder. And louder. I opened the blackout blinds on the back window, and discovered three cow bums a metre away from the van. Holy shit! Then, a large whump on the side of the van and Michael jolted awake. A cow had banged right into the side of us! I shot out of bed and opened the curtains to the cab, cows there. I opened the blackout blinds over the kitchen counter, cows there. Cows to the sides, cows to the front, cows to the back…we were surrounded! I wonder if the cows think Vinnie is a cow too? I guess all the rust on him could look a bit like cow spots. It was the perfect Austrian alarm clock, and once the cows were finished humping the side of the van, or whatever it was they were doing, we left!

Fourth country: Italy (again)

We finally found Lago di Braies, also known as Pragser Wildsee, aka The Pearl of the Dolomites. The lake is surrounded on all sides by magnificent mountains, and the colour of the water is a deep and beautiful turquoise green.

The place is a bit touristy, with a big chalet hotel, lots of parking space for tour busses, and the almost laughably photogenic rowboats for rent, at a totally laughable price. No bother for us tho, the weather wasn’t all that nice, so we found ourselves walking around the lake alone. We sat at one of the benches, and looked out over the water, up at the towering mountains around us. Phew, life is good. (Check out some videos I took of the lake with my DJI Spark below!).

Our short Google Map route turned into a five day, super exciting detour, that gave us memories we will never forget. Perhaps we shouldn’t always look for the fastest way there. Perhaps sometimes, we should opt for the slow route, the route that may take longer, and could possibly take us places we might not otherwise go. Maybe that’s the lesson here.

Europe, Travel Stories

Dinner and a Movie at the Cannes International Film Festival

May 24, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

Michael and I have been traveling now for 54 weeks, 36 of which have been living and traveling in our van. We’ve been spending a lot of time together. We eat every meal together, we plan activities together, and we spend our downtime together. We have learned a lot about each other too, how grumpy Michael gets if he’s hungry, how emotional I am when I’m tired, and which foods make us gassy — you know, romantic stuff. At the beginning of our trip, when we were in Italy, we went for sushi (yes, you can get something other than pizza and pasta in Italy!). That evening I wore lipstick, and we talked about everything under the sun except plans for our trip. It was lovely! We called it date night. And since then, every three or four weeks, we go on a date night. There are a few rules to date night: I wear lipstick, we go out for dinner, and we don’t talk about poop.

We were in Cannes, France during the International Film Festival (is a sentence I never thought I would say). We found the perfect cheapskate parking spot for the van — free street parking on a side street right off the beach! We found out pretty quickly that it would be near impossible for us to get tickets to see an actual movie, so we spent our days on the beach in the sun, topless tanning, baguette eating, yacht watching, and helicopter spotting. It’s pretty swanky in Cannes on a normal day. Pack in a bunch of celebs, ‘wannabe’ celebs, and ‘I-wanna-see-celebs’ and you’ve got yourself some crazy energy.

I, for one, have never felt poorer in my life. Picture this: we meander down le Croisette, past the exclusive beach clubs with various coloured carpets out front, where the paparazzi snap coveted pictures of models and actors. Then we walk along the main road where shiny black vans with tinted windows pick up and drop off important people at the fanciest hotels. We wander past ritzy cafes, where the espresso costs €3.75, and then down to the golden beach. From here, we can see that the sky over the water is busy with helicopters flying between the yacht helipads and the helipad outside the red carpet theatre, and that the horizon is made up of mega yachts, one of which is painted gold. Then, we turn a corner, climb into our van and pee in a jar. Paparazzi, see me now!

On our last night in Cannes, we went out for a date night. It’s been a year since Michael took me for sushi in Florence. He paid that night, maybe he didn’t realize he’d have to stretch his savings for over a year when he decided to take care of such a big bill. So, on our last evening, a year, almost to the day, later I reciprocated that date. I took Michael for a beautiful meal at L’Assiette Provençale.

Before dinner, we bought a cheap AF bottle of wine at the supermarket, took it down to the beach, and enjoyed it in the sunset. There were lots of people on the beach; couples drinking wine or beer like us, a bunch of young teenagers being goofy in the sand, families soaking up the last minutes of daylight. It was great. We finished our bottle and meandered past the empty red carpet (everyone was inside watching a movie), to the restaurant.

For dinner, we ordered another bottle of wine — this one was much more expensive that the last. I had zucchini risotto to start, duck breast as my main, and the most meringued lemon meringue pie I’ve ever seen. Michael had roast vegetables with candied goat cheese to start, sea bass for his main, and creme brûlée for dessert. It was all so scrumptious.

When we left, the movie was out. The streets were flooded with flashing bulbs and crowd of people. We rushed through the crowd to get where we needed to be: the beach! A few years ago, the Film Festival began showing classic winning movies from festivals past, for free at a makeshift theatre on the main beach. This evening’s movie was Silence of the Lambs! I have never seen it, but it’s obviously a classic, and what cooler place to see it than in Cannes where it debuted? This might have been the fanciest ‘dinner and a movie’ date I’ve ever been on.

I can’t wait to see what Michael does next year to try and top this!

Read about our last date night in Sidi Ifni, Morocco here!

Africa, Europe, Travel Stories

A Van Ah – A Music Video

May 18, 2018 Beth 5 Comments

We rewrote the lyrics to the catchiest tune on the radio, and our version is about living in a van!

Enjoy!

Thanks Camilla Cabello for writing the original song, ‘Havana’.

Europe, Travel Stories

Above the Clouds on El Teide, Tenerife

February 27, 2018 Beth 3 Comments

Michael and I took a vacation from van life for three weeks. In that time, we met up with my mom and dad in the Canary Islands of Spain. This is a story about the day we went up to the top of the volcano on Tenerife.

We drove up and up along the worst winding road ever. Battling motion sickness, I sat in the front seat, willing my stomach to just chill, and my gag reflex to not overreact. We had driven for about an hour, up so high into the hills, and then into clouds. We couldn’t even see the road 50m in front of us. Cars would seemingly appear out of nowhere, we couldn’t see where the road turned, only when trees stood right in front of us. We drove about 20km/hr the whole way.

And then, just as soon as they appeared, the clouds dispersed! The sky was blue blue blue, and there was not a cloud above us. The ground was dusted with snow, and the farther up we drove, the more snow we saw. We came to a clearing and saw people sledding down small hills. They used body boards as toboggans! I learned a while ago that the El Teide National Park is the most visited national park in Spain, followed by Lanzarote, and then the Picos de Europa. This meant the roads were PACKED! And not wide enough to be so busy. The parking lots were busy with Spanish drivers and people in rental cars, and of course, the snow and ice from yesterday had turned to slush in the heat of the sun today. Dang, it was hectic. We got honked at a bunch of times but we weren’t too bothered. The park was stunning. The volcano, the sky, the surroundings, all of it. You can roll your eyes all you want, silver Subaru, but nothing can get us down.

We arrived at the base of Teide and parked the car. We walked up the gondola station and found the ticket office. We went to the desk and stood behind a family. The lady at the ticket desk give them a really sympathetic look. The family turned around, disappointed, and walked away. When it was my turn, I walked up and said, “you’re sold out, aren’t you?” She nodded with the same sympathy. NOOOOO! We stood nearby and chatted about it. Mom, dad and I stood there, talking about how we didn’t need to go up anyways, that it was just as beautiful down here. Michael, on the other hand, walked over to a different ticket desk. He said he was going to ask about how to buy tickets for another day. He came back with four tickets for the cable car. They were for 4:30pm. What?! Magic Michael!

We went outside to the ticket man and asked if we could use our 4:30 tickets even though it was only 2pm. He nodded and let us go through. WHAT?! This day is magical. This volcano is magical. It wants us to go to the top. The cable car was quick, with a few stomach-in-your-mouth moments along the way. We reached the top and my, oh my. We donned our toques and gloves to fight the biting wind. The view was totally breathtaking. Or it was the altitude that was breathtaking, the volcano is higher than 3000m. We were above the clouds. Like, hundreds of metres above the clouds. The clouds gave us such a bizarre perspective, it was cool. We walked around the observation deck and took pictures. Mom pulled out the sandwiches she made for us and we sat on the wall and ate them while looking out at the whole world.

We took the cable car back down. Toques and gloves off, we walked back to the car. We wanted a close up view of the lava nearby, so we went for a quick walk through some old flow. Lava is so cool, you guys. The road through the park was stunning. More lava, older flows, huge rock formations, crazy colours, my finger on the shutter of my camera was going wild. We were above the clouds, about to go through them, and we stopped for photos. Dang, Earth, you pulled out all the stops today!

Europe, Travel Stories, Travel Tips

Van Life

December 21, 2017 Beth 4 Comments

So, we bought a van….

The van is named Vinnie, it is a 1997 Ford Transit. Vinnie may not be much to look at on the outside, but this van does exactly what we need it to do.

We have a solar panel on the roof to power all our gadgets. We have a gas stove with two burners, built right into the countertop. We have running water with a pump powered by the solar. We have a bed that is cozy, with a big duvet and too many pillows to know what to do with. Our bed slides up and converts into a sectional-style couch that wraps around a table that folds out from the wall. We have enough storage space in the back for two folding bikes, a table, two chairs, and all of our tools. And of course, we have fairy lights. That being said, the van is a never-ending project. I learned to sew in order to sew our blue drapes (pictured further below), we just finished building a beautiful new box over the wheel well out of a few pallets we found in an alley, and we rigged our new surf board to hang from the ceiling!

Van life is amazing. We drove through France and did the France Passion program (read about France Passion here!), we drove through the north of Spain (read ten things to do in the north of Spain here!). We have stayed in campgrounds, on farms, in the parking lots of trailheads. My favourite though, is finding a parking lot by the beach, out of the cities. We wake up with the beach to ourselves. We can open the back doors, and enjoy our coffee looking out over a perfect ocean.

When we just can’t find a sneaky camping spot by the beach, we use two applications on our iPhones; Camper Contact and Caramaps. These apps show us campervan parking spots where we can stay the night, and service stops for when we need to fill up with clean water, drain our waste water, or even where we can do laundry if we need it.

Here’s some info about driving in Germany:

If you are going to drive in Germany for longer than 6 months, or anytime after 6 months of being there, you need a German driver’s licence OR an EU driver’s licence. If you are from Canada, your International Driver’s Permit, will NOT cut it. You have to have a German one. To get this, you go to the Bürgeramt (same place you register your address), and apply. They take a photocopy of your Canadian licence and your passport. You can’t pay cash, you must pay from a German bank account! Maybe bring a German friend who can speak for you and use their card to pay. Otherwise, expect to speak German at the desk.

We bought our van in Germany, and brought it to Berlin to be registered. We are registered in Berlin, and would have to register the car there too (for information about visas and registrations in Berlin, check this article here). In Berlin, it takes 3 weeks to register a vehicle and be able to drive it, so we left. We drove to Bavaria. We registered a new address there, and were able to register our van there too. We needed a German bank account to do so, for the taxes of driving a car come off your account automatically every month.

As Canadians we required International Driver’s Permits to drive in Spain. No other country required it as far as we know.

Living in a van with your partner is an our of this world rewarding challenge and the trials and tribulations that we have faced and overcome have only made our love for each other and our love for van life stronger. Stay tuned for more stories and updates as we continue to drive the van to Morocco!

And as always, if you have questions or concerns, comment below or send me a message!

Europe, Travel Tips

Five things to do in Lisbon for under €5

December 7, 2017 Beth Leave a comment

So, you’re in the capital of Portugal. You did a day trip to Sintra, you’ve spent a beachy day at Caiscais, now you’re looking for some things to do in Lisbon itself. Here are my top five things to do in the city:

1) Free Walking tour

I am not sick of writing it, I am not sick of doing it, free walking tours are the best activity one can do in any city. SANDEMAN’s New Europe free walking tours are some of the best free walking tours I have ever done (and I proudly say this with no compensation from the company). The tour guides are so well informed about the history of the city, and so clearly love this place, it is hard not to fall in love yourself. They work on tips, so you decide how much the tour was worth at the end. I generally stick to €5-€10, because I am on a crazy budget, but you tip whatever you feel!

Cost: €5 (-€10 if you’re not a cheapskate)

2) Get the view of the city from St George’s castle

You can take an elevator for €7 up most of the way to this observation deck, OR if you find the monastery, there is a little pathway beside it on the right. Follow the path and you will find the top of the elevator. You just saved €7, my friend! You still pay €3 to walk up the stairs all the way to the top of the lookout point and the view is spectacular. I would say it may even be worth €7 for the elevator as well as the €3, but then you will drink those two beers you bought with that €7 and you’ll thank me.

Cost: €3 if you take the shortcut!

3) Get Lost in Alfama

The streets of Alfama were built to make enemy soldiers get lost. It was some of Lisbon’s greatest defense! I can see how one could get lost… Turn a corner, and you’re at a dead end. All of a sudden, the only way to get home is by climbing a super skinny, dark, steep staircase. Streets are only as long as 100m until they turn or end. Go, wander, bring some water just in case. You can continue making your way uphill and find the Miradouro das Portas do Sol Observation Deck for a view of Porto you won’t quickly forget!

Cost: Free. €1 if you buy a shot of Ginginja…

4) Eat dinner at Time Out Market

The Time Out Market, located a quick walk from old town, is a restaurant market full of many different vendors selling many different food and drinks! It’s the perfect night out, because everyone can get something different! I had delicious croquettes from Croqueteria Está Aquiz, tried some Oysters from Monte Mar, and split a bowl of Poke from the Hawaiian fusion place. Come here to drink beer, eat a delicious meal, and people watch.

Cost: Whatever you want it to be!

5) Eat a pastel de nata at Manteigaria

A Pastel de Nata is an incredibly delicious, creamy, custardy Portuguese pastry. In Lisbon you can get one from any bakery, but the best Pastel de Nata is from Manteigaria. When you are walking through the streets of Lisbon and you hear a bell toll, no, it is not a church bell (well it might be, there are a lot of churches in Lisbon) it is the bell of bakery Manteigaria signifying you that a fresh batch of Pastel de Nata has just come out of the oven! RUN there. Do not walk. The most amazing custardy tart awaits you!

Cost: €4.50 for two tarts, a coffee, and a tea

Looking for some more inspiration? Read about my day in Lisbon here!

Heading to Porto? Check five things to do in Porto here!

Europe

Five Places to eat in Porto, Portugal

November 27, 2017 Beth 1 Comment

I like to think of myself as the queen of budget traveling. Finding good quality, artisinal places to eat can be hard, especially when one is on a budget as low as mine. But it’s not all ketchup packets and crackers! I do still eat out and enjoy a meal on the town every once in a while.

Looking for a delicious meal out in Porto? Here are my favourite five places to dine:

1) O Diplomata for a big, pancake breakfast

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, so kickstart your metabolism with a huge stack of homemade pancakes from O Diplomata. Here, one can decorate their pancakes with various toppings, fruits, sauces, and even ice creams! You can’t go wrong with the perfect pancake and whatever topping you choose!

2) Base for cocktails and beanbag chairs

The best time for a cocktail is anytime. We were tired from walking up and down the many hills in Porto, and needed a place to rest our weary legs and enjoy an ice cold beverage. Base is a super hip cocktail bar, nestled in a park in the middle of the city. Here, you will find grassy knolls, bean bag chairs, and homemade crate furniture. Sit under an olive tree and order a cold one!

3) Tapabento for an unforgettable twist on Portuguese classics

IMG_5381_72 — Image from the Tapabento website

Tapabento is the perfect place for a delicious dinner. It is definitely not the cheapest meal I’ve had in Porto, but it is absolutely the most unforgettable while still being reasonable. The fois gras toastie changed my life, and I will be chasing that cucumber ice cream forever.

4) Brick for the perfect shareable meal

46F77F80-5742-4C8E-A184-44D804623077 — Pic by our lunch date @jm_brewpub

It’s fun to eat rich and decadent food while on holidays, but sometimes your bod needs a break! Brick is the perfect place for a healthy, shareable meal. The toasties are to die for. Order a few rounds of each and you’ll walk out satiated and jubilated! Try the pork cheek toastie!

5) Ro for Ramen something different.

Portugal has some delicious classic dishes, yes, the Francesinha changed my life, but sometimes when you are traveling you want to taste something a little different. Right in the middle of the coolest area in Porto, is Ro, a ramen place! Enjoy a delicious bowl of steamy, hot ramen, and wash it down with their signature red sake sangria!

6) Zenith for a bonus breakfast!

If you’re like me, you enjoy breakfast so much, you list two breakfast places in your “Five Things” article about where to eat. I couldn’t go without mentioning Zenith’s incredible twist on eggs benedict. They bread their poached eggs, serve it with avocado and crispy serrano ham. Paired with a breakfast cocktail, you can’t go wrong!

Full of food and looking for something to do? Check out Six Things to do in Porto here!

Heading to Lisbon next? Let this story inspire you!

Europe, Travel Tips

Six things to do in Porto, Portugal

November 23, 2017 Beth 2 Comments

Going to Porto?

Porto is a totally beautiful city in the north of Portugal. Built alongside the huge Douro river, with views of the ocean, Porto is a perfectly picturesque place in Portugal you won’t want to miss (pardon the alliteration, but I couldn’t resist).

Here are SIX things you can do in Porto:

1) Learn too much on a free walking tour

As always, I am a huge advocate for free walking tours (Madrid, Valencia, Florence…). The best way to see a city is to walk around it, and on a free walking tour, you get stories and fun historical facts to accompany the views. Your tour guide works on tips, so you decide how much they deserve at the end of the tour. I tend to tip €5-10 (because I am traveling for an extensive period of time and have a SUPER tight budget), but it’s up to the attendees what they pay. I like that.

We did our tour with Porto Walkers, check their website here!

2) Indulge in a Francesinha sandwich

How could you go to Portugal and not eat the Portuguese food? About 50 years ago the Francesinha sandwich was invented at a cafe in Porto, and now, has become a staple dish in the city. Vegetarians and vegans look away! This is a sandwich of bread, meat, sausage, bread, meat, and sausage, wrapped in melted cheese, topped with a fried egg, served floating in beer sauce, with fries on the side. Oh. My. Gosh. It is amazing! Trust me you are probably going to want to share this sandwich. I ordered sauce on the side so I could decide how submerged I wanted my sandwich.

Cafe Santiago on R. de Passos Manuel serves an authentic Francesinha for €9.

3) See Porto from a different angle

Porto is a beautiful and super colourful city. They say the buildings along the river were painted bright colours as an attempt to cheer up the women whose lovers and husbands left on the fishing boats for weeks and months at a time. My favourite view of Porto is actually from Gaia, the city across the river. It is said that the best thing about Gaia is the view of Porto from the Serra do Pilar. You can either walk across the top level of the Luis I Bridge, which is dazzling, OR walk along the bottom level and make the trek up the hill on the other side. For a view of Porto you won’t forget, head here.

4) Go to the beach!

Porto is right on the Douro river, and very close to the Atlantic coast. Matosinhos is a beautiful little beachy neighbourhood that is only a 15-20 minute metro ride away from Porto. Here, you can try your hand at surfing some perfect beginner waves, have a beer on the patio of Lais de Guia, or just buy a bottle of wine and some olives at the nearby Pingo Doce, and bring it to the sand to watch the sunset!

5) Find out how Port Wine is made (and then drink a bunch)!

Porto, and more specifically, the Douro valley, is the home of Port Wine. In fact, in order for wine to be classified as Port Wine, it must come from the Portuguese side of the Douro valley! The grapes are grown and processed at the vineyards, about 100km away from the city of Port (see next thing to do), and the wine is brought to the wine lodges in the city to age. Porto Walkers does a great Port Wine tour for €20 a person. You’ll see three wine lodges and taste seven wines. This is absolutely the best bang for your buck!

For more information, check out the website here!

6) Go to the Douro Valley (where Port Wine grapes are grown)!

Now that you know where the Port Wine is aged and stored, it’s time to check out the vineyards where the grapes are grown! When looking at going to the Douro Valley from Porto, there are so many options online for tours you can book — a big bus takes you to the valley, you do a tour and a tasting, maybe hop on a boat and cruise down the Douro river — and the cheapest one goes for about €100 per person. The other option, is to hire a personal driver to take you and yours out to the valley for a private day. This is what we did. We booked through Maia Tours (their website here) and Ricardo gave us a personalized tour. We didn’t want to do another Port cave tour (we had done so many with Porto Walkers), and were more interested in lunch and multiple tastings, so he made that happen. He called a few wineries and made all the reservations for us. We were able to sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride! For the day with Ricardo, it was only €250 (€62.5 each for four people)!

Bonus activity:

Eat Port Wine ice cream at Porto Cruz!

In Gaia, amidst all the Port Lodges and wine tours, is Porto Cruz’ ice cream shop. Here, you can sample an incredible and delicious 10 year tawny Port mixed into a perfect sorbet. I promise you will not be disappointed!!

Need more? Check out Five Places to Eat in Porto here!