Category Archives: Travel Tips

San Pancho, Mexico – What to Eat!

January 22, 2019 Beth Leave a comment

San Pancho, the perfect little village, situated just north of Sayulita, about 45 minutes from PVR. Here, you will find a beautiful, swimmable beach, a small surf break, artisanal shops selling handmade goods, and most importantly, delicious food. We spent a week here, and I collected the names of our favourite places; the places with the best deals, the best food, and the best people. Here is what to eat in San Pancho:

I ❤️ Al Pastor

Ok, I don’t actually know if this is the name of this place, but that’s what their shirts say. Here you will find the Mexican City classic, pork meat slow roasted on a spit. There is a pineapple on the top of the spit that drips down as the meat cooks. The meat is expertly shaved with a giant machete, and piled onto a fresh corn tortilla. Make sure to order “con piña” for a couple slices of pineapple on top. You decorate your own tacos with a variety of sauces ranging from creamy avocado sauce to ‘sweat through your cheeks’ habanero sauce. This street spot is always busy, so be patient and be sure to snag a seat at the picnic table if one becomes available.

Con Amor

Want a good deal? Look no further. Con Amor has a nice, little menu with delicious tacos, beautiful quesadillas, and great prices! They are next door to a grocery store where you can buy beer and drink it at your table. And who doesn’t like dinner and a show? The local minstrel always comes by Con Amor to serenade the patio with his renditions of Queen, David Bowie, and Pink Floyd.

Limbo

This family owned restaurant is closer to the beach, and has a lovely little outdoor seating area. The food is a little more expensive than the al pastor place, but this is where we satisfied our craving for aguachiles. Big, fresh prawns are drowned in a bowl full of lime and chile. The citrus cooks the prawns, and the chile adds just enough bite. At Limbo, the aquachiles is served with tostadas, and salsas on the side. I’m salivating just thinking about it.

The Best Sandwich Ever.

Actually though. This restaurant didn’t appear to have a sign out front, so I’m actually not sure what it’s called. BUT, it is kiddy-corner to the ATM, Cajero Banorte. They are only open during the day, but they don’t serve breakfast. The Mexicana torta will change your life. A sandwich on fresh bread, with cooked sausage, ham, bacon, beef, and onions, drizzled with homemade sauces, diced tomatoes, and jalapeño. We ordered one each, then looked around and noticed that every local sitting at this place was eating a Mexican torta. Seriously, best. Sandwich. Ever.

Los Arbolitos

People will tell you for the best tacos in town, go to Los Arbolitos. They aren’t entirely wrong (I mean the al pastor tacos around the corner are the best tacos in town), if you are looking for chicken, beef, or mushrooms. The frijoles at Los Arbolitos are next level, and the best part is that they are sitting out on the table with all the sauces, so you can take as many as you want! I had half a mind to bring a Tupperware and just fill it up to take home… I refrained. The beer is a good price at Los Arbolitos too, so you won’t break the bank.

To drink:

TuTu

Looking for a fancy AF cocktail? Look no further than TuTu. This is a nightclub, I think the only one in San Pancho, but we never saw it busy because our bedtime was too early for such activities. We sat outside at one of the two tables, and ordered fancy mezcal and passionfruit cocktails. The glass was rimmed with tamarind and the paper straw was wrapped in a tamarind candy – Mexico, where even the candy is spicy. Here, you won’t find much food, but if you’re feeling a bit boujee, and want a very photogenic drink, this is the place for you.

Cerveceria Artesenal San Pancho

What would a cool, small, hippy surf town be without an artisanal craft brewery?! Cerveceria Artesenal drew our attention one evening when a band was set up outside, and sitting at the tables were the coolest people I’ve ever seen. The beer selection is great! IPAs, blondes, and ambers. Good ol’ craft breweries. You can order snacks food bites too, if a liquid dinner isn’t your thing.

Check out some of the other food I’ve eaten around the world!

North America, Travel Tips

How to: Hike the Berg Lake Trail in BC

September 28, 2018 Beth 1 Comment

So, you want to hike the Berg Lake Trail…. The Berg Lake Trail is a spectacular trail system through the Robson valley, straddling British Columbia and Alberta, Canada. Multiple lakes, through the valley of 1000 falls, and along a valley carved by massive glaciers, the Berg Lake Trail boasts some of the most majestic mountain views in the province. BC Parks keeps the trail incredibly well-maintained, which means folks of all hiking levels can hike the Berg Lake Trail. There are seven campsites on the BC side, spread out along the 23km path, and the trail continues onto the Alberta side, with many more campsites, promising many more days of adventure.

Looking for a nice day hike?

The hike from the trailhead to Kinney Lake is 7km. The elevation gain is mild, less than 200m, but with a gradual incline and rolling hills, you might not even feel it. The path is wide and very well used by hikers and mountain bikers, and brings you to the stunningly blue Kinney Lake. Stop here for a picnic with a view, and then hike back down. The round trip is 14km, and will take about four hours, depending on the length of your lunch stop!

Want to spend the night?

From Kinney lake, the hike to the next campsite, Whitehorn, is only 4km, but you gain more elevation in less kilometres. Whitehorn is where a lot of people choose to spend their first night on a multi-night trip on the Berg Lake Trail. Here, you are close to fresh water, have access to an outhouse, and have a shelter with a wood fireplace and picnic tables, to escape any bad weather. From the trailhead to Whitehorn is a challenging day, but the views of the valley are something else.

To read about all of my adventures on the Berg Lake Trail, click here!

Looking for something even more challenging?

Sensible people spend their first night at Whitehorn. We are not sensible people. We hiked all the way to Berg Lake, and stayed at the Marmot Campground. This is a 22km day with a 800m of elevation gain. It’s long and challenging, but it means you have more days around Berg Lake to do day trips and explore. The Berg Lake campground has a beautiful shelter with a wood stove and tables, so you can get cozy before bed. With a view of the utterly bewildering Berg Glacier, this campsite is definitely worth a stop.

Want to be a bit more rugged?

Once you cross the BC/Alberta border, you can wave goodbye to outhouses, food storage lockers, wide well-trodden paths, and shelters. But, you can wave hello to building your own campfire! Alberta offers a more rugged backcountry camping experience, including bear hangs, green thrones, and firewood collecting. Adolphus Lake campground is 6km away from Berg Lake campground, and you will probably have the place to yourself.

Explore the Robson Valley!

There are plenty of day trips to do in the Robson Valley, that begin at Berg Lake Campground. You can hike up to Snowbird pass, walk along the Toboggan Falls Trail, check out Mumm Basin, or just spend the day collecting firewood and exploring the surrounding area.

For more information from Canada Parks, click here

To read about all of my adventures on the Berg Lake Trail, click here!

Looking for more to do in the Rocky Mountains? Click Here!

Europe, Travel Stories, Travel Tips

The Ultimate Slovenia Itinerary

September 3, 2018 Beth 1 Comment

Spending Ten Days in Slovenia

When we drove into Slovenia, I really had no idea what to expect. Before we arrived, I had to look up “best places to go in Slovenia” and I only found the beautiful blue Soča river and the quaint little capital city, Ljubljana. Turns out, there are SO MANY other things to do in Slovenia! We began our ten day road trip in Triglav National Park, named for the highest mountain in the country, Triglav. The national park boasts beautiful mountain peaks, stunning mountain valleys, and all the beauty that goes along with such a landscape. Here, you will find hiking, climbing, epic waterfalls, and of course, the intensely blue and crystal clear Soča river!

There is so much to see and do in Slovenia, I made a list to help narrow it down, make it easier to plan, and inspire a little wanderlust! Here is the ultimate itinerary for a road trip through Slovenia:

Day one:

Try an extreme sport!

Among the best places to go in Slovenia, Bovec, I would say, is the capital of extreme activities, and the best place to begin adventures in the Soča river valley. There are so many companies in Bovec offering white water rafting, caving, canyoning, paragliding, and zip-lining excursions. We opted for a white water rafting trip with the company based out of a hostel, Hostel Soča Rocks*. Here, we found a white water rafting trip at a very reasonable €41, and the company runs the trip twice a day, so there is plenty of room and availability!

*I am not in any way affiliated with this tour company

Day two:

DO go chasing waterfalls!

With so many mountains, and clear, natural springs around every corner, it is not hard to find a waterfall. As you leave Bovec, south on the 203, you will see signs for Slap Boka (in Slovenian, the word for waterfall is ‘slap’). You can park on the side of the road, and take a quick 30 minute walk up through a forest, to the lookout point. The view might take your breath away!

Next, continue your drive along the 203, through the quaint village of Zaga and Sprenica, and take the exit for Kobarid. Here, you will cross over Napolean’s bridge, a beautiful, and super Instagrammable bridge, and find parking for Slap Kozjak. A 45 minute walk through yet another, beautiful forest, will bring you to the very cool lookout point of the waterfall in a cave!

Pro Tip: One of the best things to do in Slovenia is any time you see a sign that says ‘slap’ just pull over and check it out!

Day three:

Wander the boardwalks of the Tolmin Gorge and enjoy a Slovenian beer by the Soča river.

Through the town of Tolmin, past the fields, and up into the mountain valley, you will find the Tolmin gorge. Entry is €5, and well worth it. The boardwalk takes you along the river, and then turned into steps up along the cliffs. We had beautiful views, both from down next to the water’s edge, and from high above the river. The water is crystal clear, and the rocks are covered in moss and lush, green, leafy plants. It’s really something else.

After the gorge, head down across the river to the restaurant Labrca. Here, you can enjoy a Slovenian beer – it’s a must on the list of things to do in Slovenia! There are two major breweries in Slovenia, Laško and Union. They are very similar, but Laško is a bit stronger. When deciding which one to drink, we were told to think of how many you want. If you are just going to enjoy 1 or 2 beers, choose Laško. If you want to drink 3 or more, choose Union. Your body will thank you in the morning.

Day four:

Do a wine tasting in Brda wine country.

I bet you didn’t know Slovenia has a beautiful wine country! This is a surprise on the list of things to do in Slovenia! The Brda countryside is home to remarkable wines, and delectable cherries. In Dobrovo, you will find Klet Brda, the largest winery in Slovenia. You can do a self-led wine tasting for €12, and have a chance to taste ten of their wines! Read a story about this, the best wine tasting ever, here!

Day five:

Don’t forget about the quaintest capital city in Europe!

From Dobrovo to Ljubljana, the drive is about an hour and a half. There is no doubt, that this little capital city is among the best places to go in Slovenia. There is so much to see and do in Ljubljana, but of course, the best way to start your day in any city, is with a free walking tour! To read about my favourite things to do with only a day in Ljubljana, here!

Day six:

Go to Lake Bled, as beautiful as it is touristy.

Yes, Lake Bled is touristy. Yes, you will spend your time there walking next to large groups of other travellers from all over the world. Yes, there is a casino on the waterfront. But, you know what? There is a reason it is so busy, and that reason is because it is so spectacularly beautiful, and easily one of the best places to go in Slovenia. Any place that is so touristy is a bit more expensive, but I was successful in remaining a cheapskate while I was there. Read about our perfect day in Bled here!

Day seven and eight:

Climb to the summit of Triglav

One of the top things to do in Slovenia, according to the Prime Minister of Slovenia himself, is to climb the highest mountain in the country, Triglav. He has said that it is the duty of every Slovenian to complete the hike and reach the summit. With an altitude of 2863m, the trip requires two or three days (one if you are a seasoned trail runner), with an evening spent in one of the mountain refuge huts! There are a number of trails you can take up to the summit, some are easier than others, some are more scenic with better views, but all lead to the same place: the top! Read about how I got to the top of Triglav here!

Day nine and ten:

Go to the way less touristy and unimaginably beautiful Lake Bohinj.

Only a 45 minute drive away from Bled is the much quieter Lake Bohinj, less touristy, but still one of the best places to go in Slovenia. Here, you will find a much more wild lake, with way less people. There is a walking trail around the perimeter of the lake, and unlike Lake Bled, there will be very few people on it with you. You can also visit the waterfalls in the area, go up the Vogel gondola, or rent a canoe and paddle around the lake (In Ukanc, at the campground, you can rent a canoe for only €9 an hour!).

So there you go, the ultimate list of things to do in Slovenia! Let me know below if you have comments or questions, and if you like this post, go ahead and share it!

Stay up to date on the where’s where of my adventures and click here to subscribe to my monthly newsletter!

Driving through the Dolomites next? Check out one of my fave spots here!

Europe, Travel Tips

Ten Things to do in Berlin, Germany

August 8, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

For under €10!

You’re going to Berlin? That’s fantastic! Berlin is definitely one of the coolest capital cities in Europe. It’s also kind of like another world. Anything goes in Berlin and you can be anyone you want. There is so much to do in Berlin, I had trouble keeping the list down to just ten. Use this as your Berlin travel guide, here are ten things to do!

1) Free walking tour. Duh!

I am not sick of writing it, I am not sick of doing it, free walking tours are the best things to do in Berlin and in any city! SANDEMAN’s New Europe free walking tours are some of the best free walking tours I have ever done (and I proudly say this with no compensation from the company). The tour guides are so well informed about the history of the city, and so clearly love this place, it is hard not to fall in love yourself. They work on tips, so you decide how much the tour was worth at the end.

Cost: €5-€10, but you tip whatever you feel!

2) Have a photoshoot by the East Side Gallery

When the Berlin wall came down in 1989, a lot of the wall was removed, but there are still a few places where the wall still stands. The East Side Gallery is a part of the wall that has become a huge gallery for street art. Each piece tells a story. Some are funny and use bright colours, others are more solemn and serious. Every piece is beautiful, and is really one of the most Instagrammable places in Berlin.

Cost: Free!

3) The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

As far as memorials go, this has to be one of the most incredible. Spanning an entire city block, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe in an immersive monument which encourages people to walk through it. The stones are different heights, the ground is uneven, and as you walk into the middle, the sounds of the city disappear. All of a sudden, you’re alone and it’s silent. It’s beautiful and solemn. It is a place of contemplation and warning. As an added bonus, check out the museum underneath and do the audio guided tour. It’s beautifully done.

Cost: Free! (The audioguide in the museum does cost a few euros)

4) Go to Teufelsberg for a picnic

You may not find this in any other Berlin travel guide….. In the middle of Grünewald Forest, is a man-made hill called Teufelsberg, created from rubble and debris moved from Berlin after World War II. The Americans used the Radomes -weatherproof enclosures that protects a radar antenna – atop the hill as listening stations during the Cold War. When the Berlin wall fell, the equipment was removed, but the Radomes and buildings remained. It’s now what I believe is a squatter’s paradise, and is open to the public! Read the full story about my day at Teufelsberg here!

Cost: €8 to enter and to wander about.

5) Mauerpark on a Sunday afternoon

If it’s a sunny day and a Sunday, Mauerpark is the perfect place to go. The flea market sells everything from jewellery to vintage clothes, antique furniture to beautiful art. Around every corner is someone playing music. We saw a group playing funky brass music, we found an African drum circle, a moody solo autoharp player, and even a DJ with a set up out of his van. Starting around 3pm, in the Bearpit, a huge amphitheatre, a man named Joe hosts Bearpit Karaoke! Here, people have the chance to volunteer to sing their fave song in front of the crowd. Read a story about when I did Bearpit Karaoke here!

Cost: €2-€5. Joe works by donation!

6) Check out a techno club!

Berlin Travel Guide - Berghain — A sticker is placed on every phone camera before entering Berghain. So this is the only photo I have from inside the club

Berlin is known for its clubbing and techno scene where the party doesn’t stop until Monday morning…and even then. If you’re looking for something to do on a Friday or Saturday night, head out on the town and prepare yourself for a wild night. Berlin is also home to one of the most exclusive clubs in the world, Berghain. Exclusive because not everyone gets in, and nobody knows why! Read a story about how Michael and I got into Berghain here!

Cost: It depends on the club and their cost of cover… Hopefully it’s under €10

7) Eat a Döner kebab.

You’ve heard “go to Berlin, eat a currywurst!” and yes, sure, eat a currywurst in Berlin. It’s really just a hot dog in ketchup with curry powder sprinkled on top. They’re ok, but not my fave. The REAL treat and best thing to do in Berlin is the döner kebab. Freshly sliced meat from the rotisserie stuffed into freshly warmed bread, layered with sauce and vegetables, and all for the very reasonable cost of €3-€4 (don’t pay more than that)!

Cost: €3-4

8) Drink a Wegbier

On the top of the list of things to do in Berlin, is drink your beer anywhere: the parks, the sidewalk, even the train (although technically not on the S-Bahn). The word ‘wegbier’ literally translates to ‘away beer’. Basically, it’s a beer you take to go. You can drink anywhere and beer is cheaper than water! Head to the closest Späti (the store in which you buy a wegbier), find a Berliner or take a Gösser Radler, and grab a bottle from the back — it will be the coldest. Then, do as the Berliners do, and drink anywhere!

Cost: €1.80 for a Berliner

9) Take a photo in a Photoautomat!

Scattered around the city are photo booths, known as Photoautomats. Here, for only €2, you and your friends can pose for four photos that are printed into a beautiful photo strip. Some of the cameras shoot in colour, some are B&W, some will be busier than others with lines leading up to them, some will smell like pee, and might even have someone sleeping inside! No matter what, you will get a series of four beautiful photos that will make you laugh every time.

Cost: €2 per four photos

10) No Berlin Travel Guide would be complete without a Biergarten!

My fave is the Prater Biergarten. It’s in the middle of the city, and the whole place is just community-style seating. You can buy beers and classic German snacks like hotdogs and pretzels. How can you go wrong with a beer and a wurst on a sunny summer day?!

Cost: €2 for a beer, €2 for a dog!

Looking for more things to do in Germany? Why not go to Oktoberfest?!

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Europe, Travel Stories, Travel Tips

Three Days in the Isle of Skye

August 1, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

Day one:

The Fairy Pools and Wild Camping

The Isle of Skye is a beautiful and rugged island off the west coast of mainland Scotland. For many years, it was only accessible by ferry, but in 1992 a huge bridge was built that connects the island to the mainland. We filled the gas tank of our tiny blue rental car, and drove from Fort William to the bridge, and then over the sea to Skye. The Isle of Skye is chalk-full of spectacular and totally stunning natural phenomena and, what’s more, it’s not very big which makes it easy to get around!

The Fairy Pools

We arrived on the island in the late afternoon, and drove straight to the Fairy Pools in the southwest part of the island. In the bottom of a big, wide, and very beautiful munro valley, a small river of water has cut through the ground. The water carved away at the rock and formed multiple waterfalls and swimmable pools. They are aptly named “The Fairy Pools” and truly, this is a spot where I imagine Fairies come to frolic and play when all the humans are gone. We arrived in the early evening, and while the sun was still out, we wandered down the path, and followed the water upstream to where the waterfalls were. The site wasn’t too busy, but I think it was due to the time of day. I imagine between noon and 5pm, this place is super busy with folks soaking up the magic. We sat by the water, and watched the sky change colours as the sunset. When the sun was gone, we walked back to the car.

Wild Camping in Skye

In Scotland, one has the Right to Roam, which allows one to set up their tent and camp almost anywhere in the country for one or two nights. Our first night on Skye would be spent next to the pools. We found a lovely, foresty spot near the pools and set up our tent. There were a few little flying bugs around, but we weren’t too bothered by them. Then a few turned into a bajillion little flying bugs, and they began swarming and biting! Midges! The bane of any Isle of Skye camper’s existence. They are teensy little flies that swarm and bite and are maybe the most annoying thing one can come across. We escaped to the safety of our tent and prayed they would be gone in the morning. Here’s hoping!

Day two:

Neist Point, the Fairy Glen, and our Oceanside Campsite

After a quick peanut butter and apple breakfast (enjoyed while sitting in the car in an attempt to avoid the midges that clearly weren’t gone by morning), we visited the Fairy Pools again, how could we not? We walk up to the waterfalls and soaked in the magic before walking back to the car and hitting the road.

Neist Point

On the most western part of the island is the Neist Point lighthouse. Built over 100 years ago, the lighthouse sits on a terribly rugged and rocky cliff-top, and looks out over the beautiful coastline of Skye, and the causeway between it and the isles nearby. Talk about an epic view. We parked the car, said hello to the grazing cows nearby, and waked the few hundred metres to where the path starts. I couldn’t help but notice all the wild campers tearing down their sites from the night before. Now this would be an epic spot to wake up at! We came to the edge of the cliff and my jaw dropped. From where we stood, past the jagged and treacherous cliffs, we could see the lighthouse. Wow. We walked along the path that took us up to the top of the cliff nearby, and we sat up there for a while, speechless. We looked out over the deep blue water, scouring the surface for signs of whales or dolphins, but none graced us with their presence.

The Fairy Glen

Back to the car, and back on the road. Our next stop? The Fairy Glen of Uig (pronounced ooo-ig), in the northeast of the island. We parked behind a few other cars stopped on the side of the road, and climbed the closest hill. The Fairy Glen is another mystical spot in Skye. Numerous hills pop up from the ground and create a rippling and rolling landscape. The hills, while not high, are surprisingly steep and very close together. At the top of a hill, we could look out and see the landscape, busy with other tourists wandering around the site. When we walked back down, we found ourselves in narrow dells (the small space between the hills), with nobody around. In one flat spot, we found a fairy spiral made out of rocks. This is how you greet the fairies! We found the outermost part of the spiral and entered the maze-like structure. We followed the path round and around, until we reached the very middle of the spiral. Here, is where you gift the fairies with something shiny or special, and make a wish! Piled in the middle were coins from all over the world, bracelets and rings, and perfect little seashells. I regretted leaving my wallet in the car, and put my hands in my jacket pockets, hoping to find something. Lo and behold, my fingers were happy to find the green rock with chunks of quartz I picked up from a river in Chur, Switzerland (haven’t worn this jacket in a while…)! I placed the rock on the pile and closed my eyes to make a wish. “Nice to meet you, fairies,” I thought.

Sleeping Oceanside

We drove north on the highway, enjoying the rolling hills surrounding us. The highway took us through farm fields, and past quaint villages, until it spit us out right next to the water. We found a wee pullout with a picnic table and a super flat spot, perfect for a tent. We set up our camp, and boiled a cup of tea each. We sat, drinking our tea, looking out over the causeway and across to the Western Isles. Anywhere else in the world, a camp spot with a view like this would cost money, and you definitely wouldn’t be the only ones there. But there we were with the place to ourselves. We were happy with the view, but the best part was probably the slight breeze blowing in from the water. Slight breeze means no midges! It doesn’t get much better than this.

Day three:

The Isle of Skye Brewery, the Quirang, the Old Man of Storr, and a Rainy Evening

We woke up to the soothing sounds of the ocean. The slight breeze remained through the night and into this morning, which meant there were still no midges about. Woohoo! We jumped in the car and drove back south, back to Uig.

Isle of Skye Brewery

The Isle of Skye Brewery is a small and traditional brewery right in Uig. At the moment, they don’t offer tastings, but in the next year they hope to acquire the right licence, and begin offering tours that end with a tasting. We visited the shop and were given so much information about the tasting notes of each beer, I didn’t need to actually taste any before buying the ones I knew I would love. We bought the Black, the Blaven, the Red, and the Tarasgeir. We nestled them in the ice in the cooler in the boot of the car. We will save them for later!

The Quirang

We drove into the Quirang and parked the car. The main hike began right from the main carpark, and took us up into the hills. There wasn’t a single moment along the entire hike that the view stopped being stunning. We looked down the south coast of the isle, and when we turned the corner, could see the entire north coast. The rock formations along the trail are jagged and epic, and the view never gets old. The whole loop is about 7km and took us about three hours to complete.

Old Man of Storr

Our next stop was to another famous rock formation, the Old Man of Storr. We parked on the road and began the walk up. It was a short walk, but quite steep in some places, and with lots of loose rocks, we had to be careful of where we stepped. The site wasn’t too busy, because the weather wasn’t very nice, but I imagine this place is teeming with people when the sun is out. We reached the top, the perfect viewpoint of the rocks, and wow, it’s almost supernatural. The rocks were carved by glaciers melting, and look like they are precariously balanced on the side of a hill. It really is something else. Again, from up top, we could see the south east coast of Skye, and the other isle in the distance. What an amazing horizon!

A Rainy Evening

We drove into Portree, the main settlement on the island, and found the public pool. Here, we paid a few pounds for a shower. There is nothing quite like a hot shower, and after living in a van for ten months, I can honestly say I will never get over it. After we were both squeaky clean, we took our tiny blue car to another perfect camping spot. We found a little road turn off and set up the tent right on the edge of a cliff overlooking the water. The sky threatened rain, so we set up the tarp from the car to the tent, and created a little dry spot between the two where we could cook dinner and enjoy our Isle of Skye Brewery beers!

Visit the Isle of Skye!

Our three days and three nights on the Isle of Skye were unforgettable. It boasts epic walks, beautiful views, and some of the most spectacular coastline I’ve ever seen. It is easy to get around too, so you don’t need too much time to see a lot of it. That being said, I could have stayed another week, driving, discovering, and wild camping in magnificent spots.

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Europe, Travel Stories, Travel Tips

Spending the Day in Ljubljana, Slovenia

July 9, 2018 Beth 2 Comments

You know Paris, Berlin, and Madrid. They are the big, metropolitan, European capital cities, that probably take up 75% of travel posts on Pinterest. They are the well known cities, the top travel destinations, the ‘bucket list’ vacation spots. But, there is a European capital city you may have not heard of. I know I hadn’t. And now I know, that the quaintest, most walkable capital city I’ve ever been to, is Ljubljana, Slovenia.

We enjoyed the perfect day in Ljubljana, and here are my top six things to do in the quaintest capital city in Europe:

1) A free walking tour!

I am such a huge advocate for free walking tours. It is absolutely the best way to see a city, learn a bit about the culture and history, and to get a local’s suggestions for things to do and places to eat. We chose to go with Ljubljana Free Tour (website here). We met in front of the bigm pink church in Prešeren Square. Our guide took us around for about two hours, to the different sites, points of interest, and best photo opportunities in the city.

2. For a coffee or an afternoon drink, go to Pritličje (don’t ask me how to pronounce it…)

For a trendy, super hip break from your day, head here for a coffee, a beer, or a fresh juice. With a shopfront right on one of the main shopping streets, Pritličje boasts an openly welcoming space for people of all sexualities, and identities. I am so happy that such an inclusive cafe thrives here, just two doors down from City Hall.

3. Try a piece of local cake.

Pardon the fact it’s half eaten. It was just so tasty!

After a two hour walking tour, you’ll be ready for a sweet little break. It’s the perfect opportunity to try a slice of the local cake, Prekmurska Gibanica. The cake is a layered pastry made of walnuts, poppy seeds, apples, raisins, and cottage cheese. There is a lot going on with this cake, and oh, boy, it’s is ALL right. We had a slice from Gujžina Prekmurska Gostilna. It was €3.50 for a slice to go, and €4.50 to eat it at a table. We chose to have ours to go, and enjoyed it on the steps of the city hall nearby.

4. Drink a beer!

Slovenia has two major beer brands, Laško and Union. They are very similar, but Laško is a bit stronger. When deciding which one to drink, we were told to think of how many you want. If you are just going to enjoy 1 or 2 beers, choose Laško. If you want to drink 3 or more, choose Union. Your body will thank you in the morning.

5. Wander through the open market.

In a big open square in the middle of the city, is the open market. Here, local farmers come and set up their tables to sell fresh fruit and vegetables from their farms. The market happens every day of the week, except Sundays, and is the perfect place to procure an incredible picnic. And, keep a sharp eye, for the Prime Minister of Slovenia is often seen perusing the stalls too!

6. For dinner? Eat a delicious meal, and support a noble restaurant.

We went to Druga Violina for dinner. The restaurant is known for its large portions, reasonable prices, and for employing people with special needs. Here, we enjoyed the Slovenian sampler plate for two people to share. It was €28, and probably the most expensive thing on the menu, but well worth it. The food was delicious, and we had the opportunity to taste ten or so different local specialties. If you go here around 7pm, prepare for a wait. We arrived just after 7pm, and waited for about 45 minutes. Our table was on the patio, and we enjoyed some wonderful people watching as we enjoyed our meal.

Slovenia, Travel Stories, Travel Tips, Uncategorized

At a Wine Tasting in Slovenia

July 5, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

After a few epic days, hiking, white water rafting, and waterfall chasing in the Triglav National park, we decided we wanted to see a totally different side of Slovenia. We hit the road, and drove down south, to wine country! Wine country? In Slovenia? “But I’ve never had a Slovenian wine,” you’re thinking. I know! Me neither! Turns out, they make wine, and the grapes are grown on beautiful rolling hills, very Tuscan-esque. We arrived in Dobrovo, an incredibly quaint little village, and home to the largest winery in Slovenia, Klet Brda. We quickly found it, and parked the van in front.

Inside, we went to the little shop and asked about the wine tasting. The young lady who worked was so nice. She explained that the tasting costs €12, and it is self led. That meant, she would give us a bit of an overview of the winery and its history, give us the tasting notes for each wine, and then let us try the wines at our own pace. She said people often stay for an hour or hour and a half! Sounds like a pretty good deal! We followed her into the tasting room. In the banquet room next door, through a temporary wall, we could hear the chatter of some kind of party, but our tasting room was completely empty. The lady gave us a brief history of the winery, the names of the various grapes, wines, and some of the techniques used. She handed us the tasting notes for each wine, and told us that all ten wines are for sale in the store. Wait a minute. Ten wines? She smiled and left the room. We found ourselves in the tasting room, on our own, just Michael, me, and ten wines to taste. Ohhhh dear.

We started with the two sparkling wines, served straight out of the bottle. We sat near the big, picture windows, and looked out over the rolling Slovenian hills. Gosh, this countryside is stunning, and so, SO different than the mountainous, rocky, and extreme Triglav National Park from where we just came. As we tasted the sparkling wines, the party in the banquet room next door, sang a Slovenian drinking song and cheers’d! We joined them in raising our glasses and cheers’d each other.

We moved onto the whites, the six whites (!), that were served from a machine. Each bottle was connected to two buttons with an icon next to each button — one was a half full wine glass, and one was a full wine glass. You can guess which button we chose. We pressed the full wine glass button once, twice, three times. We read the tasting notes of each wine, and half pretended to follow along. I have never been that good at tasting the notes and nuances in a wine, and today was no different. Sure, after I read notes that the wine smells like kiwis and tastes like wood, the wine smells and tastes just so, but until I read it, it really just smells and tastes like wine. Every time someone walked through the room, to go to the banquet room, or through to the wine shop, we stuck our noses deep into the glasses and rambled on about tannins, the subtleties, and the tones.

By the time we moved onto the reds, again served in bottles, we were happily pouring very healthy portions. The first red was delicious, and I opted for a second ‘taste’ before moving onto the last wine. We thought those who spent an hour and a half in that tasting room must be crazy people, but, there we were, two and a half hours later, stumbling into the wine shop.

We paid for our tasting, and bought a few big bottles of our favourite wines. We left the winery, and went back to the van. We knew that after that much wine, neither of us could drive, so we went for a hilarious, drunken stumble around the vineyards.

We arrived back to the van after an hour or so. There was a big parking lot across the road from the winery, and it looked flat enough, like a decent place to sleep. So, because neither of us was fit to drive, we pushed the van across the road into our perfect little parking spot. The beauty of having your bed with you at all times is that after having way too much wine, you can just fall right into it. Thanks for the epic wine tasting, Slovenia!

Europe, Travel Tips

Ten things to do in Amsterdam

July 1, 2018 Beth Leave a comment

(that aren’t the red light district or the Heineken brewery)

I lived in Amsterdam for six months while I was on an exchange through university! I spent my days cycling around the city, searching for the coolest, trendiest, and most Dutch places I could find. This is a list of ten of my favourite activities and places to go in one of the most beautiful cities in the world!

1) Get around like a local

Amsterdam is probably the most bicycle friendly city I have ever been to (Copenhagen is a close second…), and I firmly believe you can’t go to Amsterdam without renting a bicycle. Not only is the city built completely for them — it is faster to bicycle anywhere than walk, take a tram, or drive — but the bicycle is the king of the road, and has the right of way. The best place to rent your bicycle from is Starbikes located behind Amsterdam Centraal. It is not cheaper than any other bicycle rental place, BUT it does not have a huge “I am a tourist” bicycle rental sign plastered on the front. The bicycle you rent here will allow you to blend in and you will get less eye rolls from the locals on the bike path.

2) Learn the difference between a cafe and a coffee shop.

A cafe is where one can purchase coffee, tea, sandwiches, cakes, etc. A coffee shop is where one can purchase different varieties of smokeable herbs… Coffee and Coconuts in De Pijp is a cool old theatre that’s been turned into a crazy, 5 story loft Cafe with organic food and delicious tea and coffee. Coffeeshop 137 is a really cool cannabis store in the Jordaan area. You can tell them how you want your weed to make you feel and they will recommend the perfect blend for you. This coffee shop is a little less cliché. You won’t find any Bob Marley references here, and you may not even see another traveller here — just locals!

3) Wander around the Negen Straats (the Nine Streets)

In the heart of Jordaan, you will find nine intersecting streets that are home to super hip vintage shops, artisanal restaurants, and designer clothing stores. A lot of the clothing stores are expensive, but the streets are beautiful to wander along. My favourite store is The Darling on Runstraat. They sell cute, vintage clothes, and cupcakes!

4) Head to the Cheese Museum!

This is a museum/cheese shop, on Prinsengracht near the Anne Frank museum. It is free to get in, but really touristy. It’s a bit crowded, there are people wearing fanny packs all over the place, and it’s a bit chaotic, BUT, they have all of their cheese out for samples. I have been there many many times and have filled myself up for free with delicious Dutch cheese. They do have some cheese paraphernalia downstairs too, so you can actually learn something while you’re there! (Or just eat cheese).

5) Have brunch at Staring at Jacob

Open Thursday to Monday, Staring at Jacob is a super hip, restaurant east and a bit outside of the city centre. To get there is a delightful bicycle ride that takes you along canals and more classic Amsterdam canal houses. My favourite menu item is their chicken and waffles — real maple syrup (which is important to a Canadian), home made hot sauce, and flaky fried chicken. OH my damn, it’s good. They also have a hefty list of alcoholic brunch beverages, so take your pick and enjoy your ‘hair of the dog’ in the sun!

5) Have a beer at Hannekes Boom

Located just near Amsterdam Centraal, close to Nemo (the huge science centre), is Hannekes Boom. This bar has a backyard that overlooks the canals, with about 100 picnic tables each painted by a local artist, and a killer tree swing over the water. If in Amsterdam on a Sunday, try to go and snag a table! They have different bands play every Sunday around 4pm and you won’t disappointed. Live music, cheap beer, bearded men, and the feeling of a music festival. It’s the perfect Sunday afternoon!

6) Watch the sunset from a canal bench

Albert Heijn, the main grocery store in Amsterdam, sells pretty cheap wine. I’m talking €3 a bottle. Buy a bottle of wine, some plastic cups, and hang out somewhere! You can drink anywhere on the streets, unless it’s marked otherwise. One of my favourite places was sitting on the bench where Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht meet. It’s a lovely place to watch the sunset over the canal, and watch boats go by.

7) Indulge in a slice of pie from Winkel 43

In Jordaan, across the street from the big, old church, Noorderkerk, is Winkel 43. Here, you will be able to order the best and biggest slice of homemade apple pie in the city. If you go in the afternoon for a coffee and a slice, prepare yourself for a long wait for a table. If you’re like me and don’t like waiting, go to Winkel 43 in the evening, after 7pm. You will be able to find a table, and they will happily still serve apple pie. The crust alone is worth the wait for a table at this cafe.

8) Rent a paddle boat and cruise the canals!

Paddle boats (or bicycle boats) are really cheap to rent and SO funny. Cruising the canals of Amsterdam in any watercraft is a must, and a paddle boat is a cheap and funny way to check it off your bucket list. Just beware of the huge canal tour boats, they don’t like when you get in their way, and will honk their horn to tell you! If a pedal boat isn’t your style, you can rent a motor boat from boats4rent (their website here). It is a cheap option as well!

9) Have a slice of cake at Zoet en Hartig

Directly translated from Sweet and Savoury, Zoet en Hartig is the place to go for any kind of food craving. They have a delicious spicy chicken wrap for lunch, and totally beautiful desserts. My favourite treat were the hot chocolate spoons, you melt it into hot water and it becomes delicious hot chocolate. You can also try their alcoholic spoons with whatever your favourite liquor that releases into the milk as your chocolate melts!

10) Try a classic snack at Cafe Thijssen

You can’t go to the Netherlands without trying some of their classic snacks. Cafe Thijssen serves the most delicious bitterballen — a ball of doughy deep fried perfection served hot with grainy mustard. You can also try their modern twists of the classic favourite! Two glasses of Amstel and a plate of bitterballen to share will set you back about €6, what’s not to like!

Read about more of my Dutch adventures here!

Africa, Travel Tips

How to: Drive to Morocco from Spain

December 29, 2017 Beth 2 Comments

I had only been in Algeciras, Spain for about 5 hours, and already it was quite clear to me that the only reason one comes to Algeciras, Spain is to stock up on groceries, and take the ferry to Morocco. There were hundreds of campers and RVs scattered around the parking lots of the supermarkets and hardware stores of this huge shopping complex. We spent our one day in Algeciras buying what we thought we might miss being away from Europe — wine, beer, sunscreen, and popcorn kernels.

Friday, December 29

The alarm went off at 6am this morning. It was pitch black outside and I did not want to move from my damn cozy van bed. I snoozed the alarm and rolled over onto Michael’s chest. “Hey Michael, what do you want to do today?” He smiled, “wanna go to Africa?”

We finally peeled ourselves out of bed and made the van ready for driving, or as we like to call it “car-erizing”. The drive to the ferry port was fast, not many cars on the road at this time, and we followed the signs that said TANGIER. We quickly found which queue to join, it was the one with 30 or so RVs and campervans. A quick check of our ferry boarding cards and we were on the boat.

We found a seat in the main deck and filled out our declaration forms. There was a huge queue of people along one side of the room. At the front of the line, two official looking men sat at a table and stamped passports and documents — customs. We would fill out our cards now, but wait until the line died down to go over there

When the boat set sail we went to the cafe and ordered a tea, a coffee, and two croissants. We sat at a table and scarfed them down. A man sat down across from us. He saw our passports on the table and, in broken English, with a thick German accent, told us how in 2008, he and his wife went around Canada, the USA, and Mexico for one year in a camping car. Cool! We chatted with him a while, about his time in Jasper and the Rocky Mountains, until Michael noticed the queue for customs disappear entirely, and the men begin packing up their computers! OH NO! We excused ourselves from the German man and ran to the table. The men rolled their eyes, the one unpacked his computer, and took our passports. We apologized for being late. The man looked at Michael’s passport. He saw Michael’s last name, “Quick?” he asked. Michael nodded. He closed the passport and handed it back to Michael. “Pretty slow if you ask me…” and smiled. Haha!

We went to the deck and soaked in our surroundings. Sailing away from the great Rock of Gibraltar, past the beautiful coast of Spain, and towards the rugged and totally unknown-to-us coastline of Morocco. The wind was crisp and the sun, still low in the sky, rose behind a few big, billowy clouds.

The German man came to meet us on the deck. He told us he comes to Morocco for three months, every year for fourteen years. In Canada, we would call this man a snowbird — someone who escapes winter in their own country and heads to warmer weather. He gave us some good advice about the border crossing, things to do in Morocco, places to see, and where to stay. He really set our mind at ease. If he can do this border crossing fourteen times, then we can do it once.

The ferry grew closer and closer to the shore, and when the announcement came on for us to go back to our cars, we said goodbye to the German man. We shuffled down the steep steps with the other campervan’ers, and waited in the van until we were told to go.

We drove through to customs and parked the van in some shade. We sat and waited. A man came to check the vehicle registration and our passports. We waited. I saw a drug sniffer dog go into a few cars. We waited. I saw them ask a man to take out almost the entire contents of his trunk, and then laughed as they all tried to help him fit it back in. We waited. Finally, they asked us to open the doors. We didn’t need to take anything out. The man looked briefly in the back, in the glove compartment, and asked if we had a gun or a drone. We have neither, so he waved us on. That was it! It was a long wait, about an hour or so, but so relaxed.

Morocco is going to be a huge adventure. I am happy to be here. I am happy be checking other country off my to do list. I am so excited to see what we have in store for the next few months.

Stay tuned for more tales of my Moroccan adventure! Let me know what you think in the comments. Been to Morocco before? I would love to hear from you, favourite places, suggestions what to see, where to eat, and any tips from fellow travellers!

Here are some tips for driving across the border from Spain to Morocco.

We did the crossing from Algeciras to Tangier Med. The ferry tickets are more expensive, but I received good word from one of my favourite Instagrammers (@sloopemc) that the Tangier Med customs experience is far more relaxed than the one at Tangier proper. She was right. The experience was super laid back.
We bought our tickets from Agencia de Viajes Normandi. The woman who helped us was very thorough. For €200 we got an open round trip ticket for two adults and one campervan less than 6m. She also gave us the customs forms to fill out for entry to Morocco, and for our exit in a few months, and she completed the customs forms for our vehicle. We went into this border crossing more prepared than I could have hoped!
The shopping in Algeciras is great. You can sleeping your van in the big shopping complex out of the centre (this is where we slept overnight). There is a huge Lidl, and an even bigger Carrefour to stock up on wine, beer, and whatever else you might miss from Europe. You can get alcohol in Morocco, it’s just kind of expensive.
Customs
- Put your patient pants on. The wait is long, so prepare yourself for it.
- We were asked if we have guns or a drone, since we have neither, our van wasn’t checked almost at all. I saw people nearby with the drug sniffing dogs having a sniff around their car, I saw others who had to remove everything from their car.
Right outside the border are people selling SIM cards and there are multiple places where you can have your money changed for Dirhams. After the SIM card people, you won’t be able to use Euros again

Europe, Travel Stories, Travel Tips

Van Life

December 21, 2017 Beth 4 Comments

So, we bought a van….

The van is named Vinnie, it is a 1997 Ford Transit. Vinnie may not be much to look at on the outside, but this van does exactly what we need it to do.

We have a solar panel on the roof to power all our gadgets. We have a gas stove with two burners, built right into the countertop. We have running water with a pump powered by the solar. We have a bed that is cozy, with a big duvet and too many pillows to know what to do with. Our bed slides up and converts into a sectional-style couch that wraps around a table that folds out from the wall. We have enough storage space in the back for two folding bikes, a table, two chairs, and all of our tools. And of course, we have fairy lights. That being said, the van is a never-ending project. I learned to sew in order to sew our blue drapes (pictured further below), we just finished building a beautiful new box over the wheel well out of a few pallets we found in an alley, and we rigged our new surf board to hang from the ceiling!

Van life is amazing. We drove through France and did the France Passion program (read about France Passion here!), we drove through the north of Spain (read ten things to do in the north of Spain here!). We have stayed in campgrounds, on farms, in the parking lots of trailheads. My favourite though, is finding a parking lot by the beach, out of the cities. We wake up with the beach to ourselves. We can open the back doors, and enjoy our coffee looking out over a perfect ocean.

When we just can’t find a sneaky camping spot by the beach, we use two applications on our iPhones; Camper Contact and Caramaps. These apps show us campervan parking spots where we can stay the night, and service stops for when we need to fill up with clean water, drain our waste water, or even where we can do laundry if we need it.

Here’s some info about driving in Germany:

If you are going to drive in Germany for longer than 6 months, or anytime after 6 months of being there, you need a German driver’s licence OR an EU driver’s licence. If you are from Canada, your International Driver’s Permit, will NOT cut it. You have to have a German one. To get this, you go to the Bürgeramt (same place you register your address), and apply. They take a photocopy of your Canadian licence and your passport. You can’t pay cash, you must pay from a German bank account! Maybe bring a German friend who can speak for you and use their card to pay. Otherwise, expect to speak German at the desk.

We bought our van in Germany, and brought it to Berlin to be registered. We are registered in Berlin, and would have to register the car there too (for information about visas and registrations in Berlin, check this article here). In Berlin, it takes 3 weeks to register a vehicle and be able to drive it, so we left. We drove to Bavaria. We registered a new address there, and were able to register our van there too. We needed a German bank account to do so, for the taxes of driving a car come off your account automatically every month.

As Canadians we required International Driver’s Permits to drive in Spain. No other country required it as far as we know.

Living in a van with your partner is an our of this world rewarding challenge and the trials and tribulations that we have faced and overcome have only made our love for each other and our love for van life stronger. Stay tuned for more stories and updates as we continue to drive the van to Morocco!

And as always, if you have questions or concerns, comment below or send me a message!